June 2008


Today is battery box day!

I used the waterjet to cut the pieces of the battery box out of 1/8″ 6061 aluminum.
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Next, I TIG welded all the corners (don’t look too close, it’s been a long time since I have welded aluminum).
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A quick test fit in the chassis
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Now to make sure the batteries will fit.
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Perfect! I’ll drop it off at the powder coaters tomorrow.

I am a little ashamed to admit it, but I decided to use a couple pieces of 80/20 to support my battery box. I thought about welding up a fancy aluminum support system, but this seemed so much easier. Plus, if I ever have to take it out, it is very simple to unbolt.

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A sheet of aluminum will go over these supports to form the bottom of the battery box.

I can’t wait to install the new batteries and take it out for a REAL test drive, but I should probably install the seatbelts first…

Yesterday a box arrived on my doorstep. It was the Manzanita Micro PFC-30 charger I ordered 6 weeks ago. Yeah!

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Here is the design spec for my BMS:

1. Monitor the voltage and temperature of each of the 50 cells.

2. Report all information over an opto-isolated shared serial bus.

3. Balance the cells during charging

4. Alert the driver if any cell drops below a certain cutoff voltage. (This may get upgraded to actually adjusting the throttle on the motor controller)

5. Provide visual state information via LEDs. I want to be able to look at the cells and determine if they are being charged and/or are balancing. Be sure to use frosted LEDs for high viewing angle.

6. Interface to the car PC for data collection and user interface.

7. Provide an electro-mechanical means of setting the “address” of each board on it’s network (either jumpers or a set of solder-bridgeable pads)

8. Use a communication protocol with error checking. Checksums with retrys will probably be fine.

9. Choose a connector that is standard so we can use manufactured cables (I hate making cables).

10. Keep part counts to a minimal. Remember, each part we add is multiplied by 50.

Here’s the plan so far: build fifty printed circuit boards, one for each cell (and one special board that interfaces to the PC and to the charger) Each board will have a PIC16F616 processor connected to an opto-isolated bus. Mechanically the bus will consist of two RJ45 connectors per board to allow for daisy chained wiring with twisted-pair wiring. There will be two LEDs per board that are software controllable.

I ordered parts to breadboard up a couple of these for testing. My only real unknown is how much current I will need to dissipate during the balancing portion of the charge. We’ll see…

I used the forklift to bring the body into the shop. I kind of hope the car never does this on its own.

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I bent up most of the pieces for the roll cage and started welding them together.

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I flipped my body over to start laying out the roll cage:

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Well it’s less of a roll cage and more of a body mounting system. Either way, it’s going to be made from 1.5″ .120 wall steel tube. I bought an el-cheapo bender from Harbor Freight with the hopes that it would make decent enough bends for my needs. I even tried packing the tube with sand.

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Unfortunately, it didn’t work so well.

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Which gave me all the more reason to learn how to use the three wheel bender. It can’t do a real tight radius, but after looking at all the bends I actually need, it should do the trick. Here it is bending the piece that goes right above the windshield.

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Q: What are the detailed car specs?

# Part Make Origin Cost
1. Rolling chassis Custom http://www.americansupercarconcepts.com/ Gift from father
2. Fiberglass body D&R Replicar (out of business) 2nd hand $8000
3. Brakes and suspension Corvette C5 came with the chassis N/A
4. Transmission Audi 5000 ‘88 Junk yard $100 + $600 rebuild
5. Wheels Cray Manta http://discounttire.com $1200
6. Motor Warp11 series wound DC http://www.evparts.com 3,119.20
7. Motor Controller Zilla 2k LV http://www.cafeelectric.com $3300
8. Motor Cooling EVsource cooling kit http://www.evsource.com $228
9. Contactor Kilovac 500A http://www.evsource.com $138
10. Fuses Ferraz Shawmut 800 Amp http://www.cafeelectric.com $65
11. Batteries ThunderSky LFP160 * 50 http://www.everspring.net $15,000
12. Charger Manzanita Micro PFC-30 http://manzanitamicro.com $2400
13. Battery Monitor Custom N/A N/A
14. DC to DC Iota 55amp http://www.evsource.com $188
15. Vacuum pump 70/6E http://www.metricmind.com $346

Q: How fast will it go?
A: On paper it should get up to 100mph. However, because I still don’t know the final weight, rolling resistance, etc. it is a little tough to predict.

Q: How long will it take to go 0-60mph?
A: Another tough question, but I would guess it will be under 6 seconds considering it has an 11 inch motor, a 2000 amp controller and batteries that can put out 1600amps (if only for a few seconds).

Q: What range will it get?
A: If I can get 80 miles under normal driving conditions, I will be quite pleased.

Q: How much did X cost?
A: Check out the table above.

Q: Are you interested in selling it or building another?
A: You might want to see how it turns out before considering this.

Q: Can I come and help?
A: Sorry, but no.

All the worrying is over. They cleared customs by 2pm today and I had them in my hands by 4pm. Fifty Thundersky LFP160’s fresh off the airplane. They should give me 160v nominal (and float a bit higher). Now I just need that charger I ordered last month.

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